This is the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file for the E15ET mailing list. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/e15et The latest version of this FAQ can be found by emailing Tarragon Allen (melange@n12turbo.com). Once it has become a bit more solid it will also be available from www.n12turbo.com and the E15ET yahoo groups page. Maintained and updated by Tarragon Allen (melange@n12turbo.com). This is Version 0.25 - 2001-02-22 18:15 See the end of this file for change logs. If you are interested in contributing, or have corrections or suggestions, please feel free to email the FAQ maintainer (Tarragon Allen ). This document is best viewed using a fixed-width font, such as courier. The document has been formatted to fit within 80 columns. For reference, see the two lines below : if they are not the same length, then you should try using a different text viewer or try a sans serif (fixed-width) font. 12345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Contents -------- Answered Questions Unanswered Questions Credits Change Log -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Answered Questions ------------------ 11. VL Throttle body. Commodore VL Thottle Body -> E15ET This text explains how to go about swapping an Australian model (black rocker cover) throttle body to a Commodore VL throttle body. The Japanese model (red rocker cover is of a different design, and so this FAQ should not be followed). First of all, you need to buy the throttle body from a wreckers, or private seller. The turbo and non-turbo throttle body is apparently the same. This depends on the price that they want to sell it for, but a good price would be about A$20-30. You would probably get a better price if you buy from a young bloke rather than someone who actually knows how much they are at a wreckers. One person I phoned wanted more than $70. Make sure the TB appears to be in good condition, and also make sure that you get the TPS sensor (small black box with wires) and bolts with it; the bolts are required because they are longer. The condition of the spring should be checked (sharp, fast return to idle), along with the butterfly (not burred or cracked). You will have two cams on the spring if it was from an automatic (one for the kickdown cable), but that doesn't matter, you only need to use the inside one. It is advisable to remove the plenum so that the inlet can be machined out to match the size of the new throttle body. However, as it only needs to be machined about 1/2mm all around, if the thought of removing the plenum makes you queasy, I don't believe that it would make much difference if it is not machined. DON'T MACHINE THE PLENUM UNLESS IT IS REMOVED, AS ALUMINIUM SHAVINGS WILL ENTER THE ENGINE!!! You will also need some gaskets. The TB -> plenum gasket and the plenum -> inlet runner gasket. The first can be bought new for a couple of dollars at any Holden dealer, but the latter is expensive (+/- $15) and might have to be ordered, depending where you live. I was careful when removing my plenum chamber so that I didn't damage the gasket, and so was able to reuse the same one without any dramas. 1) The first step is the removal the standard throttle body. After removing all the relevant inlet pipes, the four bolts holding it on are to be removed with allen keys. The TB should then come off easily, or may need a bit of a nudge (with a hammer) to remove. 2) Next the plenum needs to be unbolted. To do this, there are five or six bolts that need to be removed, from underneath the plenum. One is accessible from above, but for the rest, you will need flexible hands. There is also a large bracket supporting the whole inlet runner system that needs to be undone to remove the plenum. This long bolt is the trickiest to remove, and may require a small mirror to locate and undo. 3) With the plenum off, line up the vl TB (with the bolts) and scribe a line on the plenum inlet. The amount that needs to be machined is really small (1/2 - 1mm) on the Aus plenum, and should take about 10 mins with a file or a rotary sander (ie drill bit sander). Once again make sure that they line up. The hole in the gasket you bought from the Holden service centre may also need to be enlarged slightly to match, this can be done with easily with a knife, taking care not to over-cut. 4) As there will be shavings in the plenum chamber, wash it out and remove any dust and junk that may damage the engine. The throttle body can then be bolted (with the longer bolts) onto the plenum with the gasket in between. The throttle body will need to be turned "upside down" (in relation to the commodore location) so that the accelerator cable lines up with the cam. Bolt the whole lot together in the reverse order to the above, taking care not to damage the plenum gasket. Usual tightening techniques should be employed to allow even pressure on the gasket (much like tightening head bolts). 5) The standard TPS sensor should plug in, but the accelerator cable support may need to be bent to line up with the inside cam on the spring. I had problems with butterfly not returning to the bottom-most (idle) position with mine, and I ended up tilting the accelerator support toward the firewall slightly (by placing half a washer under the forward side) to allow the cable to extend fully, allowing the TB to return to the idle position. 6) The hose connecting the inlet pipe to the throttle body will probably be of differing size, and so something needs to be done. I did my AFM relocation before the throttle body swap, and found that the flexible piece of pipe between the AFM and the crossover pipe is a perfect fit. This should only be a temporary fix as the pipe is flexible (and hence can loose power), and a permanent solution should be sorted out when, perhaps an intercooler is being fitted. However, this hose has been running fine for months on my own car, care needs to be taken in the hose clamps to ensure that there are no air leaks. All up, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours, or cost much more than $20-30. The results were interesting, with the engine wanted to rev a little higher, as more air can pass the butterfly. The differences should be more dramatic if your engine is modified from standard, however, with everything else standard on my engine, it made some top-end difference. By Jeff Sawyer (mongen@hotmail.com) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25. Is there a top ten list of E15ET quarter mile times online somewhere? Yes! Geordo of www.fullboost.com.au maintains a top ten list at this address: http://members.optushome.com.au/geordo/e15_top10.html You can send your quarter mile results to him either by posting the details to the list or by emailing geordo@fullboost.com.au. Please note that only times registered at official drag race strips can be considered. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28. I've bought a water-cooled turbo, how do I connect the water-cooling? Connecting Water Cooling to a Leaded (-'85) E15ET Unleaded models of the E15ET came with a watercooled turbo to aid efficiency and reliability. For those people who have fitted a water cooled turbo to a non-water cooled engine, there is the possibility of connecting the water cooling, and alhough it is tricky and frustrating (and expensive?), it can be done with good results. This text is for people who have a leaded Australian E15ET, and a water cooled T25 from a CA18DET. Other turbos may have similar water lines, but as I have not had experience with these turbos, I cannot guarantee that this will work for all turbos, and all engines! I went to several piping shops to ask questions before I actually proceeded with the conversion, and answers included "Water cooled turbo? Whats that?", "It's gonna cost ya", and "I wouldn't bother mate". Finally found a shop that weld up the pipes as I wanted it. The reason I used brass (copper) pipes instead of hose was because of the intense heat around the turbo. Any normal radiator hose was going to melt/split and leak coolant everywhere. I used the copper pipes to escape from the hot area, and then used normal hose to connect to the water pipes. For the conversion, you will need: 2 x Banjo connections 2 x Banjo bolts 4 x Brass washers Copper pipe Male tailend T-piece Heater hose (perhaps high temp) Depending on the type of banjo plugs you get, you won't need to do some of the following. You can see how little room there is between the exhaust manifold and the water inlet of the turbo-core. The banjo bolt has to fit in there, so my bolt had to be cut down (the thread end) to fit in. I had the shop cut the end where the hose connects to and weld in some copper pipe. The pipe bends towards the passenger side under the oil line, and then bends towards the firewall about 15cm later. I grinded the top of my banjo bolt, because it was hitting the nut that holds the turbo onto the manifold. I also had to remove the wastegate actuator to fit an open-end spanner in there, which produced more problems - see below. The front connection (radiator side) was much the same shape, going upwards, and then bending towards the passenger side, then towards the firewall about 10cms later. The hose connection was then welded onto the end of each pipe, so that a hose could be connected. Bolting this in wasn't a problem as there is plenty of room. I used the spare bolt before the thermostat housing as my water source. This was probably the easiest part. Just unbolt it, and screw in the male tailend - easy! The return from the turbo I t-pieced into the return heater hose. The size of the heater hose and the turbo hose are different, so I had a smaller fitting welded to the larger t-piece. This part wasn't much of a drama, the only problem being coolant leaking everywhere as you cut the heater hose - but thats to be expected. Problems -------- The main problem was definitely getting the banjo to fit in between the turbo and the manifold, while being able to screw it in tight enough to stop it leaking. I first put mine in, and it seemed alright, but as soon as I started the car, it started leaking as the coolant was pumped through. There was no way I could get a open-end spanner in there to tighten it up, so I hit the thing with a hammer, and it seemed to get tighter. Started the car, and it still leaked. I ended up buying a cheap open-end spanner, and grinding the sides off so that it could fit in. I had to undo the wastegate actuator (thus loosing the circlip that holds it to the wastegate arm, and stripping half of the thread on the turbo). With the grinded spanner, it fit in good, and I tightened it up more. Started the car again with everything back together, and it leaked again. By this time it was getting dark, I was annoyed, and I was about to rip everything off and put it back to how it was before. However, I gave it one more twist just to make sure it was tight, and it indeed got tighter. It seems to be holding the coolant, but time will be the judge of that. So be warned, expect to get seriously annoyed with the middle banjo bolt, but keep trying, it works in the end. Results ------- It may be just psychological, but the car seems to run better and faster than before, despite running the same boost. Coolant temperature hasn't change noticeable, but I was expecting a bigger rise in temp. For people who are running, or planning to run more boost in the future, this mod will definitely improve efficiency and reliability of any water-cooled turbo. Cost ---- All up, parts (banjos are $15 EACH, plus $8 for the bolts!) and labour (welding) cost over $100, which is a lot for something that doesn't seem to do much. However, I believe that spending $100 now will save the turbo in the future, and its something that needs to be done. I am sure that if you shop around, it can be done cheaper, closer to $50/$60; I really couldn't be bothered running around, so I suppose it cost me a bit more. The spanner that I grinded cost $11, and should be available at any auto-parts store - you only need the cheapest one you can find. Any queries can be directed to: Jeff Sawyer mongen@hotmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29. How to correctly use the ECU diagnostic mode This is the procedure as outlined in the Nissan Model N12 Series Service Manual Revised edition incorporating ET Turbo (publication number: SM4EO-N12A0). The instructions are laid out in a flowchart format. I have attempted to copy this format as best as can be done in a text only format. O.K. stands for Okay N.G. stands for No Good START | | Turn diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise. | | Turn ignition switch to "ON" position without | N.G. running and make sure inspection lamps turn |------ Replace C.E.C.U. "ON" for approximately one second. | | | O.K. | -Depress accelerator pedal. -Turn air conditioner switch: OFF -> ON -> OFF (To properly diagnose throttle valve switch or air conditioning switch, first turn it on and the off. This is necessary to clear false display "N.G."). | | Look at inspection lamps. | | -With Nissan air conditioner | Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 44 | N.G. |-------See decoding chart -Without Nissan air conditioner | for Inspection Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 31 | Lamp Blinks | | O.K. | Start engine and drive vehicle at above 10 km/h (6 MPH). (Before diagnosing car speed sensor, operate car at a speed greater than 10 km/h (6 MPH) to clear false signal "N.G." It will be shown in place of code number 14 which refers to a malfunctioning car speed sensor). | | Look at inspection lamps. | | -With Nissan air conditioner | Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 44 | N.G. |-------See decoding chart -Without Nissan air conditioner | for Inspection Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 31 | Lamp Blinks | | O.K. | Run engine under various conditions. | | Look at inspection lamps. | | -With Nissan air conditioner | Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 44 | N.G. |-------See decoding chart -Without Nissan air conditioner | for Inspection Make sure that inspection lamps indicate code No. 31 | Lamp Blinks | | O.K. | END A malfunctioning area is determined by the number of blinks of both the red and green light emitting diodes (L.E.D.s). First, the red L.E.D. blinks and the green follows. The red L.E.D. refers to the tenth digit while the green one refers to the unit digit. For example, when the red L.E.D. blinks three times and the green L.E.D. blinks twice, this implies number "32". In this way, all problems are classified by code numbers. Decoding chart for inspection lamp blinks (note that this chart is also on the bottom of the ECU, in most cases) Code No. 11 Crank angle sensor circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 12 Air flow meter circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 13 Water temperature sensor circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 14 Car speed sensor circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 21 Ignition signal is malfunctioning. Code No. 23 Throttle valve switch (Idle switch) circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 31 -With Nissan air conditioner F.I.C.D system is malfunctioning. -Without Nissan air conditioner E.C.C.S. is operating properly. Code No. 32 Starter signal is malfunctioning. Code No. 34 Detonation sensor circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 41 Air temperature sensor circuit is malfunctioning. Code No. 43 Battery voltage is too low or too high. Code No. 44 E.C.C.S. is operating properly. Notes : This was taken from the 1984 Australian manual, and as such has no mention of extra codes or procedures required for unleaded models. If you have any information about the differences, please email Tarragon Allen . -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unanswered Questions -------------------- 1. The car loses power/stutters when it comes on boost. ECU wiring.. 2. What sort of exhaust should I buy? .. (2.5 inch, 3 inch dump, exhaust shops) .. 3. What other turbo's can I connect? ... the great T25/T28 debate ... 4. My car is running too lean/rich, what should I check? ... 4a. How can I adjust the AFM mixture setting? 4b. Water temp sensor... ... 5. Can you recommend a good mechanic/workshop? ... 6. What sort of fuel consumption should I expect? ... 7. Brakes 7a. Is it possible to convert the rear drum brakes in an Exa to discs? ... 7b. 'Prairie' vented disc upgrade ... 8. Where can I get a bodykit for my ET/Exa? ... jetspeed, wreckers, Exa Group C kit .. 9. What sort of intercooler should I buy? ... 10. My car makes a horrible grinding noise when I try to start it! ... 12. Jap-spec intake ... 13. Differences between leaded/unleaded models ... 13a. Can I use Optimax/Unleaded/Jim Beam in my car? ... 14. Replacement distributer from Nissan ... 15. Other engines into the ET/Exa ... 16. Replacement gearboxes ... 17. Difficult to get into gear. ... 18. Increasing boost/safe limits/methods ... 19. How to avoid being defected ;) ... 20. I need a new ECU, should I go aftermarket and which one? ... 21. How to tell if your turbo is screwed. ... 22. Car surges under high boost ... fuel pressure? 23. Air filter modifications/relocation ... 24. Removing air-conditioner ... neccessity, method 26. What interior parts can I get/what can be swapped between the ET/Exa? ... 27. Fitting mag wheels ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Credits: -------- This FAQ was compiled with help from Jeff Sawyer, Thumpa, Geordo, Sash, Brett Embery... thanks guys! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Change Log ---------- Version 0.1 - 2001-01-31 02:00 Initial version. Version 0.11 - 2001-02-01 07:35 Added another question. Version 0.2 - 2001-02-06 21:00 - Changes : Added "How do I connect water-cooling" question and answer thanks to Jeff Sawyer (mongen@hotmail.com). Added "VL Throttle Body" details, thanks to Jeff Sawyer (mongen@hotmail.com). Made some format changes. Version 0.21 - 2001-02-07 18:32 Corrected credit for "VL Throttle Body" article. Made some format changes. Version 0.25 - 2001-02-22 18:15 Added "E15ET top ten quarter mile times" (Tarragon Allen ) Put answered questions at the beginning of document for now. Added "How to correctly use the ECU diagnostic mode" (Tarragon Allen ) Made some format changes.